Overview
Though wine grapes have been grown in Provence for over 2,000 years, in more modern times the region has often been criticized for the mediocrity of its wines. In the 1800s, the great French wine historian, Guyot,
stated that it was a pity that the vignerons of the south had not realized that a low-yield Syrah-Cabernet
Sauvignon wine could equal the blends of Bordeaux. During the last decade, several innovative vintners have met Guyot’s challenge and are now creating a new generation of quality estate wines. Routas is one of these.
Appellations
In the 1940’s, there were few Appellations d’Origine Controlée (AOC), in Provence, one of France’s larger wine-growing areas, stretching along the Mediterranean coast east of the Rhône River. These included Bandol and Cassis between Marseille and Toulon, Bellet in the hills of Nice, and Palette, near Aix. In 1977, these were joined by the Côtes de Provence; in 1985 by Coteaux d’Aix en Provence and Côteaux des Baux en Provence, and in 1987 by the Côtes du Luberon. The region also includes Coteaux de Pierrevert, a virtually unknown VDQS (Vin de Qualité Supérieur, the step below AOC)
Coteaux Varois
Fearing that the dominant AOC regions such as Bordeaux would impose their ideas and regulations, the
growers in the Coteaux Varois originally resisted applying for membership from AOCs governing body, the Institute National d’Appellations d’Origine (INAO). However, realizing that they were being left behind, Coteaux Varois obtained VDQS status in 1985 and then in March,1993, an AOC. The Coteaux Varois is therefore still little known, with many wine drinkers not even aware that it is in Provence. Quoting from Rosemary George, MW, in French Country Wines (Faber & Faber, 1990); “There is no doubt that it is the private estates that are leading the way in the Coteaux Varois. People with means have invested in the area and shaking up the intransigent older growers; the potential is considerable”.
The Coteaux Varois Appellation is east of the Rhône River, sandwiched between the appellations of Côtes de Provence to the east and Coteaux d’Aix en Provence to the west. It is in the north-central portion of the
Department of the Var, equidistant between the Mediterranean coast and the foothills of the Alps.
Size
The Coteaux Varois has about 3,500 acres under vine, with some 50 growers, including cooperatives that produce vast quantities of rosé; and a tiny proportion of exciting reds. Its commercial centre is the town
of Brignoles to the east, surrounded by 27 villages, and its cultural centre is the historic town of Saint Maximin to the west.
Climate
The climate in the Var is dramatic. In winter it snows, and drought is an ever present threat in summer.
Torrential rains fall in spring and autumn and contribute to an already high water table. The Mistral,
the strong springtime wind from the north, plays an important role in clearing the sky of clouds and purifying the soil. Temperatures fluctuate widely year round, as much as 28º C in summer when hot Mediterranean days are cooled by Alpine breezes at night.
Estates
In the Coteaux Varois, a few estates are earning international reputations, among these are the Domaines of St. Jean de Villecroze, des Alysse, and Routas. Other Provence estates that are well-known include Château Vignelaure in the Coteaux d’Aix, Château Simone in Palette, and Domaine Ott and Richeaume in the Côtes de Provence and Bandol.
Because of short-sighted and severe restrictions imposed by the governing wine authorities, other estates such as Domaine de Trienne in the Var, Trévallon in the Coteaux des Baux, and Mas de Daumas Gassac outside Provence in Languedoc, are not part of their geographic appellations. They prefer to label their wines with the lower Vin de Pays classification under which they can produce wines free of the AOC restrictions, just as many vintners have done in Italy. For the same reason Routas is also making more and more Vin de Pays.
Grapes
Most producers in the Coteaux Varois grow and blend up to a dozen grape varieties, as is done in Châteauneuf du Pape in the Rhône. The appellations promote this stance and, indeed, the regulations make it almost impossible for producers to market varietal wines. (The lesser Vin de Pays appellations are permitted to make 100% varietal wines but these are generally sold in France at substantial discounts). The grape varieties approved for use in the Coteaux Varois AOC are the reds Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, the ancient Tibouren, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the whites Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, and Sémillion.
